15 Things to Observe Before Starting your Permaculture Design

When you first start considering turning a site into a permaculture garden, you need to do a thorough analysis of the plot. You need to get to know the land, the organisms that live on it and the influences that act upon it. By understanding the land, you can work with it to make the changes a permaculture garden will need to thrive. One of the primary means of analyzing a plot is observation. Looking at the land, watching how it changes with the season, and how it reacts to events, will be a great bedrock of knowledge on which to base your subsequent permaculture garden design. The longer the period you can simply observe the land before altering it, the better, as you will see how it changes over the seasons. Here are some of the primary things that you should observe when analyzing your site.

Shade
Different species of plant require different amounts of shade and direct sunlight. Observing how the sun falls on your plot will help you decide which plants to site in which locations. It could also help you orientate your garden beds to allow for the maximum amount of sunshine to hit them, and also demonstrate where shade might provide relief for livestock.

Wind
The wind is a significant factor in the growing potential of a plot. It can affect the evaporation of moisture from the soil and from plants, can impact upon soil erosion and even damage or destroy plants. By observing how the wind acts upon a site you can design windbreaks to protect your plants and animals from the negative effects of the wind.

Temperature
Temperature affects everything from plant growth and soil moisture to evaporation from water bodies and the comfort of animals. Record temperature high and lows across the seasons, remembering that temperatures won’t be uniform across the whole site – different conditions will create niches and microclimates within the site. Noting the first and last frost of the season is also a good idea.

Sun
Observe when the sun rises and when the sun sets across your land. While these times are fairly predictable in geographic locations (they are published by government agencies, for example) the specifics of your site may mean that the times vary. For instance, if a neighboring property has a border of tall trees, the sun may tot ‘rise’ to hit your plot until later in the morning.

Microclimates
Microclimates are locations within the garden where features of the land, such as topography, materials and water bodies create variations in temperature. These microclimates can provide niches in which to cultivate certain species of plant that thrive in specific conditions. You can also plan in your design to modify microclimates where doing so may be beneficial, such as placing rocks to store and diffuse heat, or planting tall species to provide extra shade to ground cover crops.

Moisture
Moisture is key to plant growth, and the more you can harvest from the weather, and reduce your reliance on water supply systems, the better. Observe rainfall patterns across seasons (you can also access official figures of annual rainfall expectations across your region). Analyze where snow and hail settle and where it melts most quickly. Try to discern the reasons for this.

Soil
Look at the soil. This is the foundation of your permaculture garden, so you want to understand it as best you can. Look at how loose or tight the soil particles are. This will help determine if you have a clay or sandy soil, which in turn will affect how well it retains moisture.

Flow
How does water that falls on the land move across it? Are there gullies and creeks that direct the flow? Are there areas of the site that are prone to flooding after heavy rainfall? Observing how water flows across the land will, enable you to design features that make use of this flow – by diverting it to other, drier areas of the site – or slow it down so it can seep into the soil, by building swales, for example.

Views
A permaculture garden is designed to work in harmony with the land surrounding it, including the visual aspects. The views you have from your land, particularly those you wish to preserve for their natural beauty and the pleasure they give you to look at, will impact upon your garden design.

Neighbors
Observe any aspects of your neighbors’ properties and lifestyle that may impact upon your permaculture garden. It may be that they do activities that are noisy so you might want to plant trees in a position to shield yourself from that noise. They may have a tall fence or building that casts shade onto your plot, which will affect what you plant in those shaded areas.

Government
Local government ordinances and procedures will also impact upon your site. Observe whether the council undertakes spraying on vegetation in public locations near your plot. Consult zoning regulations and recycling collection schemes. You will also need to observe how public utility services are represented on your plot, be it power lines above ground or sewage systems below.

Structures
The manmade structures on a site will also influence the growing conditions. Houses, sheds and fences can affect how sunlight is reflected, how heat is retained and diffused, the shaded areas of a garden, and which views are available.

Vegetation
Before you start planting your garden, observe the vegetation that is on the site already. Which species appear to be thriving and what is it about the areas where they are growing that seems to be the reason? Which species are native and which are introduced (you may want to preserve the native plants in your design)?

Animals
Look at the wildlife that visits the site, from the smallest insects to large mammals. Each is being attracted for a reason, typically the availability of food. If there are certain species you wish to deter, and other you want to attract, you can plant accordingly.

Local Resources
Consider if there are businesses locally that could provide sustainable organic materials you need for your permaculture garden. These could include a farm to source manure and sawmills to attain woodchips for mulching.

12 Beneficial Insects For Your Permaculture Plot

Insects are the most numerous type of animal on the planet. With tens of thousands of different species and billions of individuals alive at any one time, they are among the most important creatures as well, providing a food for many other animals, and helping to pollinate plants. Insects are, therefore, important to a permaculture site as well.

Some insects are, however, more beneficial to your garden than others, primarily because they help keep populations of “pests” – insects that damage crops – down. Here are some of the little critters that will help keep your permaculture plot in balance.

Lacewings
While the lacewing gets its name from the delicate green tracery of veins on the wings of the adult, it is the larvae of the species that is of most benefit in terms of pest control. Sometimes called “aphid lions” for their voracious appetite for said pests, the larvae also prey upon small caterpillars, mealy bugs and insect eggs. As soon as the larvae hatch they search for food and can eat as many as 40 aphids per day, often, in rather macabre fashion, placing the desiccated husks of their victims on their backs as camouflage. . They have large jaws with which they grasp their prey, immobilizing them so they can suck out their juices. Attracting adult lacewings obviously increases the likelihood of larvae, and they feed on pollen, nectar and honeydew.

Ladybugs
Not only are ladybugs one of the most aesthetically pleasing of insects, they are also one of the most beneficial in controlling pests on the permaculture site. Both the adults and the larvae feed on plant-eating insects, particularly aphids but also mites and mealy bugs. Many ladybugs secrete a foul-tasting substance from their bodies to ward off predators, so once in your garden, they are likely to maintain a population if there is sufficient food.

Ground Beetles
There are approximately 2500 different species of ground beetle, and all of the most common varieties eat a wide range of smaller insects, including caterpillars, potato beetles, cutworms, snails, slugs and vine borers. Predominantly nocturnal, ground beetles prefer to lie low under rocks and plant material during the daylight hours, so make sure you have ground cover crops if you want to attract them. A few species of ground beetle are omnivorous and can consume weed seeds, offering another service to the permaculture gardener.

Braconid Wasps
Adult Braconid wasps only eat pollen and nectar, but they certainly ensure that their young have plenty of prey to feed on as soon as they hatch – by injecting their eggs into other insects. The female will lay an egg in a moth or beetle larvae, leaf miner, caterpillar, fly or an aphid, and when the wasp larvae hatches it eats its way out. Fortunately, the wasps’ fearsome reputation is reserved for other insects; it doesn’t sting so humans have no reason to fear them.

Trichogramma Mini Wasps
Similar to the Braconid wasp, these tiny creatures lay their eggs not inside other insects, but in their eggs. The young mini wasps develop inside, preventing the original insect’s young from developing. They tend to favour the eggs of moths and butterflies, but will also lay in those of some species of worm.

Assassin Bugs
Like their human namesakes, assassin bugs stalk their prey before delivering a killer blow – piercing their victim with an elongated mandible. Both adults and larvae feed on aphids, caterpillars, spider mites and all manner of insect eggs. Be careful if handling assassin bugs as they can bite you as well!

Minute Pirate Bugs
Small they may be (around two millimeters in length), but minute pirate bugs will attack insect prey many times their own size. But while they will take the occasional caterpillar, the majority of their diet is made up of mites, thrips and aphids. While their entire life cycle lasts little more than a month, eggs develop rapidly so, given the right conditions, populations can cycle through several generations during spring and summer. Minute pirate bugs are known to be good pest control additions to greenhouses.

Tachinid Flies
Tachinid flies resemble the common housefly, but are distinguished by having a hairy abdomen. The adults are pollen feeders, but the larvae feed upon grasshoppers, beetles, bugs, caterpillars and earwigs. All species of Tachinid flies are parasitical, meaning their eggs develop either inside or on a host that the larvae predates when it hatches. Different species employ various methods of getting their eggs a host, from injecting it inside, placing it on the back, or sticking eggs to foliage that the prey animal will eat.

Soldier Beetles
An all-round predator, these beetles, which average around half and inch in length when fully grown, can both scuttle along the ground and fly. They are usually easy to spot, with yellow and black or red and black markings on their wings. Adults and larvae feed on soft-bodied pest insects like caterpillars and aphids, while the adults will also feed on pollen and nectar.

Hover Flies
Aphids form the largest part of hover fly larvae’s diet, although they will prey on other soft-bodied insects when they get the chance. The adults tend to lay their eggs among aphid colonies so the emerging larvae have food immediately. The adults, which look a lot like yellow jackets, are solely pollen eaters.

Spined Soldier Bugs
Preying on caterpillars, fly larvae, cabbageworms, potato beetles and grubs, spined soldier bugs are a type of stink bug, but are distinguished by their spined “shoulders” which gives their carapace a shield-like appearance. They range in color from brown to bright red.

Preying Mantids
Preying mantids are arguably the oddest-looking insects you might find on your permaculture plot, at least if you can spot them, they are. Masters of camouflage, preying mantids use their body shape and coloring to blend into plants, from where they attack any other passing insect. This does mean that they will take other beneficial insects, but with healthy populations, their benefits outweigh the loss of a few ladybugs.

Homesteading Getting Started

Often, people ask  “What should I do first? How can I learn what I need to know?” To answer these questions, we’ve gathered advice from people with decades of experience with different kinds of homestead living.

Although many people dream of buying several acres in the country, you can start homesteading wherever you are. Heidi Hunt, an assistant editor at Mother Earth News, frequently talks to readers who are considering buying land in the country. Hunt homesteaded on a farm in northeastern Washington, where she built a cabin, gardened and spent many hours chopping wood. She says she always recommends learning as many homesteading skills as possible before moving. “Planting, harvesting and preserving food are skills that can be practiced almost anywhere,” Hunt says.
In fact, many aspects of homesteading work as well in the city or suburbs as in the country. Solar panels, straw bale building, wood heat and collecting rainwater are all possible in the city or suburbs, and even raising chickens is allowed in many cities. Just be careful to check all relevant zoning and local ordinances before you get started.

By John Stuart, Carol Mack and Megan Phelps
Suggested minimum space

Type for one animal Types of food Benefits

Bees One hive, or wooden beekeeping box Pollen, nectar Honey, wax, pollination for (Average 20,000 bees/colony) garden and orchard

Chickens Housing: 3 to 4 square feet/bird Pasture, greens, insects, cracked Eggs, meat, pest control
corn, a balanced poultry ration

Ducks Housing: 5 to 6 square feet/bird Pasture, greens, snails, insects, Eggs, meat, pest control
Pond access optional cracked corn, supplemental pellets

Goats Housing: 20 to 25 square feet Pasture in the summer; hay and Meat, milk, manure,
Pasture area: 0.2 to 6 acres supplemental grain in the winter; salt control of brush
and mineral mix

Sheep Housing: 15 to 20 square feet Pasture in the summer; hay and Meat, milk, manure,
Pasture area: 0.2 to 8 acres supplemental grain in the winter; wool, “mowing” grass,
trace-mineralized salt at all times weed control

Pigs Housing: 48 square feet Pasture, corn and soybean Meat, manure,
with exercise yard meal, small grains (wheat, oats, barley, etc.) “tilling” garden spaces

Cattle Housing: 50 to 75 square feet Pasture, supplemental feeds such as Meat, milk, manure
Pasture area: 1 to 40 acres shelled corn, soybean meal, molasses
and rice bran, crop residues, hay

The acreage and feed requirements above are general guides. The lower ends of the pasture suggestions are for rainy areas, the higher figures are for arid regions. The types of food that animals need can vary widely depending on the farming methods being used.

Livestock Basics

Whatever your homesteading plans, Hunt says it’s important to focus on your priorities. Decide which parts of the dream are most important to you. “Then, do your research,” she says.
“Learn the skills and find out what’s involved. Each new homesteading activity requires new tools and skills, as well as a certain amount of money and energy.”
Tatjana Alvegaard

www.MotherEarthNews.commodern homesteading

Recommended BOOOOKS

Country Skills
The Encyclopedia of Country Living,
by Carla Emery

The Have-More Plan, by Ed and Carolyn Robinson

Living on an Acre, by the U.S. Department of Agriculture

Home and Energy

The Natural House, by Dan Chiras

Renovation: A Complete Guide
by Michael Litchfield

The Solar-Electric House, by Steve Strong

Wind Energy Basics, by Paul Gipe

Personal Accounts

The Good Life, by Helen and Scott Nearing

Just the Greatest Life, by David Schafer

Rural Renaissance, By John Ivanko and Lisa Kivirist

Food and Farming

All Flesh is Grass, by Gene Logsdon

Homesteading Resources

Barnyard in your Backyard by Gail Damerow

The Big Book of Preserving the Harvest by Carol W. Costenbader

Four Season Harvest, by Eliot Coleman

Vegetable Gardener's Bible, by Ed Smith

You Can Farm, by Joel Salatin

WEB RESOURCES

Mother's Homesteading Articles. Search morethan 30 years of articles on homesteading at
www.MotherEarthNews.com.

ATTRA: The National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service
www.attra.org

Cooperative Extension Offices
www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/
U.S. Department of Energy

www.eere.energy.gov/consumer/
renewable_energy

USDA Summary of Land Prices
usda.mannlib.cornell.edu/reports/
nassr/other/plr-bb/land0805.pdf

PLAN THE PERFECT HOMESTEAD

Some of these activities require more money and time than others — another reason why it’s a good idea to start with smaller projects, such as learning to garden before buying farmland, or doing some basic home repairs before deciding to build your own home. If you pursue larger projects, there are many ways to learn more about your interests. For potential farmers, apprenticeships and volunteer opportunities on organic farms can be invaluable. Renewable energy workshops around the country help people learn about small-scale solar or wind power. To learn about building, options range from volunteering with Habitat for Humanity to attending straw-bale building parties and natural building workshops.

www.MotherEarthNews.com

How to Grow Asparagus

Asparagus is a vegetable that belongs to the allium family, which also comprises leeks, onions, chives and shallots. It is native to the Mediterranean and Asia Minor areas, but has since been cultivated in most countries around the world. Contrary to many people’s conception, asparagus is a hardy plant and adaptable to most climate conditions, and indeed, as a perennial that overwinters in the ground, they thrive in places that have winter ground freezes. Asparagus is also a very healthy vegetable, providing good levels of a wide range of nutrients. These include potassium, B vitamins and calcium. And with no fat and virtually no calories, asparagus delivers all these positive benefits without any downside.

Position
Choose a position where your asparagus can stay permanently. They are a perennial plant and, given the right conditions and maintenance, can provide you with crops for years, even decades. Indeed, you won’t be harvesting them until at least the third year after planting, as the root system takes some time to grow strong enough to withstand harvest. Ideally you want to give the asparagus a position in full sunlight. They will tolerate partial shade, but full sunlight produces the most vigorous growth and the healthiest plant. The location also needs to drain well, as standing water will rot the roots.

Soil
Asparagus plants like a soil that is well drained and rich in organic matter. They develop very deep roots, so you want to try and make sure the soil is loosely structured for quite a way down the soil profile, enabling the roots to grow well and for moisture to percolate and aeration to occur. The best way to prepare the soil for asparagus plants is to dig a trench of around 75 centimeters and then add lots of organic material to it. This can include compost, manure, worm castings, leaf litter and so on. You can then layer soil over the top. The lower layer of organic matter will draw down the roots of the asparagus plants, making them stringer and more resilient. It will also help keep the pH of the soil balanced. Asparagus prefer a soil of between 6.5 and 7 in pH, so if your soil is acidic consider adding some organic lime along with the organic material.

Planting
Asparagus is typically planted either as seeds or seedlings. In either case, ensure you have organic specimens. Plant approximately 40 centimeters apart. This may seem like a lot but it is to prevent the extensive root systems from competing with each other for nutrients. Water the newly planted specimens well, ideally with harvested rainwater. You can also plant asparagus as ‘crowns’. These are nodules with roots already growing and are typically about a year old. Plant in trenches around six inches deep and well composted. Place each crown on a small mound and spread the roots out in different directions to ensure robust growth. Planting crowns will mean you should be able to harvest in the second year after planting rather than the third. However, make sure you source crowns from an organic supplier, and do not use any that are more than a year old, as the shock of transplantation is more severe with older crowns. In all cases, mulch around the plants to help preserve moisture and protect the plants during the winter.

Companions
A common companion plant for asparagus is tomato. The tomato repels the asparagus beetle that feeds on the roots, while the asparagus is thought to repel certain nematodes in the soil, which may damage the tomatoes. You should avoid planting asparagus in close proximity to other alliums as, given the similar genetic profile, they will be competing for the same nutrients and inhibit one another’s growth.

Water
Water regularly, as the soil should be well drained. The asparagus plants need more water in their first two years of growth to establish themselves. You may want to consider installing a drip irrigation system.

Maintenance
Compost around the plants each spring to help support growth. The extensive roots of the asparagus plants typically out-compete weeds for nutrients, so they shouldn’t be a problem after the first year or two. After the first frost in winter, or when the foliage of the plants turns yellow or brown, cut the asparagus back to ground level. This will help stimulate growth in the spring. When you cut back the foliage try to avoid letting the berries fall to the ground as they can germinate and your garden bed will have too many plants to be support.

Harvest
In the third year after planting, you can harvest the spears over a four-week period, while by the fourth the harvesting period can be extended to 8 weeks. Looks for spears with tightly formed tips and thin, strong stalks. As the weather warms up over the harvesting season, more and more spears will appear and you can harvest every other day or so, depending on the number of plants you have. Snap the spears off at ground level.

Kitchen
Like most vegetables, asparagus are best used as soon after harvest as possible. This is when they are at their fresher and so replete with the maximum amount of nutrients and flavor. However, uncooked asparagus spears will keep for up to three days in the refrigerator and still be tasty. However, the spears should really be kept damp, so either wrap in a damp tea towel or, alternatively, place the base of the stems in a jar with about an inch of water in the bottom then cover the tops loosely with a plastic bag. Asparagus can be used raw in salads, but that method means the stalks remain somewhat fibrous and only the tips are generally used. To use all of the spears they should be quickly boiled or steamed, for two or three minutes at most. This softens the stem to make it more appealing but also retains most of the nutrients. The key is to retain the bright green color of the stems – if they start to leach color they are leaching nutrients and flavor. A good tip is that once you have finished boiling or steaming, plunge the spears into ice water to preserve the color and flavor.

Seven Ideas For Urban Permaculture

When one thinks about food production, it is a natural inclination to imagine a rural scene. Fields, forests, orchards and farms are the most likely pictures that spring to mind. But the majority of people on the planet live in urban settings, so how can permaculture food production be applied to our towns and cities? There are, in fact many techniques that allow urban dwellers to grow food the permaculture way.

Window
Perhaps the archetypal material associated with modern urban architecture is glass. Apartment blocks, especially, tend to make a lot of use of it. However, it can be turned to the permaculturist’s advantage. Glass is very good at letting in sunlight and heat and you can utilize this by creating towers made from recycled plastic bottles that allow the light in and make use of the full length of your window. A more traditional option is to start window boxes. You can grow all kinds of herbs in window boxes, and even smaller fruits and vegetables like tomatoes and lettuce.

Edible Balconies
Tall apartment buildings are a feature of modern urban life, and they don’t often come with much outside space. One place where it can be available however, is on the balcony. Even in the small space of a balcony there is scope for growing food, and the same kind of analysis that you would undertake on any site should be performed before you ‘plant’. Observe wind patterns, strength and direction of sun hitting your balcony, which areas remain permanently in shade and which get a lot of sun, how much rainfall penetrates into the balcony. Of course, you won’t need to do a soil analysis, but you will need to ensure the soil you use in growing pots (the vessels you will use to grow plants on a balcony – which can be recycled containers of almost any kind) is rich in organic material and well drained.

There are many species that can be grown in pots on balconies, given the right conditions. Tomatoes and beans will climb towards sunlight (provide a trellis for them to hold on to), while root vegetables like potatoes and radishes are also feasible. Leafy greens such as kale and broccoli are very adaptable to pot growing, while salad greens and herbs are likely to give you the quickest rewards. You could also consider a small citrus tree if you have sufficient sun and it is protected from strong winds. Make the most of the height of the balcony as well by putting up baskets, in which you can grow low-lying fruits like strawberries. You will need to ensure that you keep the soil well stocked with organic matter, but you can practice composting on a small scale with the scraps for your kitchen, or even start a worm farm if space allows.

Living Roofs
The other place in apartment buildings that can provide growing space is the roof. Often the rooves of apartmentbuildings are jointly owned by all the residents and, while you would need the agreement of your fellow inhabitants, can be converted in whole or in part to a permaculture system. As long as drainage is ensured and the structure of the building is robust enough to take the extra weight you could build raised garden beds, as well as plant in pots. Species that thrive with a lot of direct sunlight – such as sweet corn, collard greens, eggplant, lettuce and tomatoes – are ideal. Just be aware of potentially high winds and seek to mitigate their destructive impact. Barrels to collect rainwater are also a good idea so you are not using mains water to irrigate.

You might also consider having one or more beehives on the roof. Bees are very adept at finding sources of food and can thrive in urban environments. Obviously, if you institute a hive as part of an overall permaculture roof garden, food is available for the bees in close proximity, and they will be instrumental in pollinating your crops.

Maximize Space
Land prices in urban areas are typically much higher than in rural areas, meaning you get less space for your money. This can mean that yards on urban plots are small. So you need to look at methods of maximizing the productive space in the garden in order to grow as much food as possible. Keyhole garden beds are one method of doing so, but you might also consider vertical planting, such as espaliered trees along fences, as well greenhouses to prolong the growing seasons.

Community Gardens|Whether you have a small backyard, a balcony, a window box, or, in particular, no space at all at your urban dwelling, getting involved with a community garden is a great way to practice permaculture and connect with other like-minded gardeners. Many towns and cities have initiatives that are turning underused or derelict land into viable plots for growing food. Your local council office will be able to tell you about initiatives in your area, and if there are none, lobby to have one started!

Land Share
Another option in urban areas that involves making connections with other people is land sharing. This initiative puts people who have land available but not the time or inclination to cultivate it in touch with those who are in the inverse situation – they have the drive to start a permaculture garden but lack the space to do so. It could be anything from a backyard to an underused allotment, and the landowner gives the gardener permission to transform the site in exchange for, typically, a small share of the harvest. Everyone wins!

Curbside Planting
Strictly speaking, you would need to get permission from the city council to plant on curbsides and on median strips, but there unlikely to be many objections to planting edible species in areas of dirt on public land. Herbs and even fruit trees have the potential to thrive in places such these, they will add to the greenery of the city and help with air quality, as well as providing local people with food. It would have to be a pretty hard-heading council to object to that!

Seven Tips for Growing Citrus Trees

Citrus fruits are some of the most versatile crops for use in the kitchen. They can be juiced for drinks or salad dressings, added to fruit salads, segmented over breakfast cereals, cooked with meat (duck a l’orange, anyone?) and used in any number of cakes, sorbets ice creams, cakes and other sweet desserts. They are also very nutritious fruits, being high in a range of vitamins. Sometimes, however, gardeners can be put off planting citrus fruits on their plot, feeling perhaps that they can only thrive in tropical climates or in greenhouses.

In fact, growing most varieties of citrus is relatively simple, as long as you are able to give them plenty of sunshine. Indeed, that primary consideration aside, permaculture gardeners should be able to cultivate a citrus tree, even if they have limited space. There are lots of varieties available, but some are more suited to small-scale cultivation than others. The Emperor mandarin is easy to cultivate and produces sweet fruit; Valencia is probably the best orange variety as it is hardier than many other species and produces a crop over a longer period; Meyer lemons can be grown in small spaces, and do well in pots; while Tahiti limes are ideal as they produce a lot of juice.

Whichever type of citrus you choose to cultivate, here are some guidelines to help get you started.

Position
Exposure to sunshine is the key to successful cultivation of all citrus varieties. A minimum of five hours full sun is necessary, but the more you can give them the better, so a north-facing position is best. In more temperate climates, it is a good idea to locate the trees next to a wall so that they can benefit from the radiated heat. This will also help to protect the trees from strong winds. A sheltered spot prevents damage to the tree from winds, but be advised that you want to ensure some airflow around the trees, which helps them transpire.

Soil
Citrus trees prefer a soil that has a neutral pH or is slightly acidic. If your soil is alkaline, that best method of lowering the pH is composting well with organic compost. It is even better if your compost contains animals manure, so if you keep chickens as livestock on your permaculture plot, citrus trees should thrive with regular doses of their composted droppings. This will also provide the trees with plenty of nitrogen, essential for their growth and development of a healthy crop, and keep grass away from the tree (which would compete for nutrients and water). It will also assist in keeping the soil well drained, which is essential for successful cultivation of citrus trees.

Planting
When you plant a citrus tree, dig a hole that is twice as wide as the pot the tree is in, and around one and half times as deep. Mix some of the soil removed from the hole with compost (preferably one with animal manure in it) and add to the base of the hole (if you are in an area with heavy clay soil, it is also a good idea to mix in some sand at this stage to help improve moisture drainage). Place the tree in and fill the hole with soil. Water well. Plant your trees in spring after any risk of frost has passed. They need a full growing season to help them establish themselves in the permaculture plot before the winter comes.

Mulch
The roots of citrus trees are comparatively shallow, so they benefit from an organic mulch to provide a slow release of nutrients into the soil (as they do not have the root depth to bring nutrients up from lower down in the soil profile). As with other trees, avoid mulching directly against the trunk of the citrus tree. Adding compost regularly around the drip line of the tree will also help provide it with the nutrients it needs.

Water
Young trees need a lot of watering, and should be irrigated once or twice a week for the first six weeks after planting to help them get established. The ground should be well drained to prevent root rot. Water early in the morning or late in the evening to give the plants the most chance to access and utilize the moisture.

Pots
Even if you have limited space, perhaps just a courtyard or sheltered balcony, you can still grow a citrus tree; it will just have to be in a pot and typically be a dwarf species. The benefit of potted citrus trees is that you can move them around to take advantage of all available sunshine as the sun moves across the sky. You can also bring the trees indoors when cold weather approaches. As you can imagine, potted trees require more constant attention than those in the garden, but the same considerations apply – they need at least five hours of sunshine a day, protection from winds (it is not recommended to have a citrus tree on a balcony high in an apartment block), a decent potting mix that drains well and regular watering. In the warmer months you should be watering once or twice a week as required. Citrus trees grown in pots will need to have their roots trimmed every three years or so. This requires you to take the tree out of the pot and trim approximately five centimeters from around the root ball. Replant with new, well-composted potting mix.

Care
Once established, most citrus trees can survive a winter, unless it involves extremely low temperatures. When the trees are young and an unexpected frost is due, wrap the tree in fleece to protect it (if growing in pots, bring the pots indoors for the night). Citrus trees do not need pruning to help them fruit, but you should take out some leaves and branches if the center becomes too dense, as airflow helps keep the tree healthy. You can prune to keep the tree at a desired size for your available space.

Making Your Own Seed

HEIRLOOM, Open-Pollinated plant varieties are your only bet for a successful personal Seed Bank.
You have probably heard of Seed Saving, where you save a plant’s seeds at the end of a growing season to serve as the seed source for the following year. This is great, because choosing the proper plants and practicing proper Seed-Saving methods gives you to a free, self-perpetuating garden year after year. Saving seed also means you can share seeds with friends and neighbors, so everyone can start growing their own.
Many people, however, are not as familiar with the concept of a personal seed bank. A personal seed bank has you saving seed for the coming season’s planting, but you also bank seed for longer storage, just in case.
What that “just in case” might be varies. Some people have created a personal seed bank as insurance against crop failures. Others believe a personal seed bank is necessary in the event of a partial (or total) societal collapse. Many people just like the idea of being Sustainable and Self Sufficient. Seed saving can also be a fun hobby. 

PLANNING YOUR SEED BANK
The most important thing to remember when planning your personal seed bank is that you can only save and store HEIRLOOM Open-Pollinated, Non-Hybridized, Non-GMO seeds. Why? Because genetically modified and hybridized seeds have been tinkered with by large corporations such as Monsanto, which don't want you to be able to save your own seeds. Why? Because they want you to have to buy seeds from them year after year. Hybridized or GMO seeds frequently have sterile first generation offspring (F1 is a designation you might have seen). This means that while you’ll get viable plants from the seeds you buy, the seeds you save from those plants will likely be sterile. If they’re not sterile, they’ll produce offspring that are so unlike the parents with such a wide variety of characteristics that they will be a disappointment and not useful. Only buy HEIRLOOM, Open-Pollinated seeds from trusted sources.
The second thing to decide when planning a seed bank is what kinds of seed you want to save. The best seeds to save are from fruits and vegetables you enjoy eating the most, but experience comes into play, too. If you’re a beginning seed saver, to start it’s best to bank seeds that require the lowest skill set. This way you can focus your first growing season on learning seed saving techniques and still have viable, usable seed banked in preparation for the following growing season, at which time you’ll expand your skill. The easiest seeds to save and bank are self-pollinated seeds.
The third thing to decide when planning a seed bank is what seeds would be best to save. This can vary greatly depending upon the reason why you are choosing to create a personal seed bank. If you’re banking seed as insurance against a crop failure in your garden or to be more Self-Sufficient, then banking what you like is the best option. If you’re banking seed as insurance against a societal collapse, then you’ll need to bank a wider variety of seeds and include many types that you may not have ever grown before, including grains. Be advised, though, that in these cases it is a good idea to get some experience growing these seeds before a collapse occurs; your seed bank will be useless if you don’t know how to grow the seeds you have.
Ready-to-order Seed Banks, or Seed Packages, are great options until you have a chance to store your own varieties

Here at THE SEED GUY, we offer a 55 Variety Heirloom Seed Bank, all Non GMO, with 23,000 Seeds all individually packaged, and then put in a 10 x 14 silver mylar bag for longer term storage. All Heirloom Seed is Home-Grown and fresh from the 2013 harvest. Price is $50. You can see our Seed package, and Free 10 Variety Heirloom Herb Seed Bonus we are offering now, at our websitehttp://theseedguy.com/13-the-55-variety-heirloom-seed-package.html

If you LIKE US on our Facebook pagehttps://www.facebook.com/theseedguy then you will be on our list for great Gardening articles, New Seed Offerings, and "Straight From The Garden" Recipes. Thank you and God Bless You and Your Family.

How to Feed Chickens

One of the most essential needs of the chickens you keep as livestock on your permaculture plot is, of course, food. Providing a balanced, varied diet for your birds will ensure that they remain healthy and give you all the yields chickens bring to the site – from scratching that turns the soil to providing eggs. There are several elements that go into a suitable diet for your chickens.

Grain
The primary nutrient that chickens need is protein, and supplying the birds with grain and seed will go a long way to fulfilling that need. You can source manufactured chicken feed made from grain, which will often have additional ingredients such as cod liver oil or fishmeal added to up the protein quotient. If purchasing grain, source from a reputable supplier and make sure it is organic and not tainted with chemicals or antibiotics.

With enough space you can grow the grains to feed your chickens, either as part of a food forest or as ground cover crops. The varieties you grow will largely depend upon your local climate, but options include rye, oats, rice, barley, corn, sorghum and millet. You can supplement these grains with seeds from both crop and windbreak trees when they are is season, such as acacia and carob. Feeding grain in a hopper means it is protected from moisture, which can cause it to deteriorate.

Vegetation
Chickens also need vegetation. They should be fed greens every day, or allowed to forage for them on the site (although you will want to prevent them eating your vegetable crops if you intend to harvest them, as chickens can quickly strip a garden bed of its plants). Cabbage, cauliflower leaves, spinach and dandelions are good options. You can also feed the birds grass clippings, but only do so a little at a time, as they can quickly go mouldy in the coop if left unconsumed. Avoid lettuce as this is prone to give the birds diarrhea, and rhubarb leaves, which can be poisonous. Fruit should be given as a treat rather than a regular part of the diet, as like lettuce it can cause the runs if eaten in large quantities.

To this you can also add scraps from your kitchen. Chickens will appreciate almost all types of vegetable scraps, although it is a good idea to avoid feeding them alliums like onions and leeks, as these can taint the flavor of the chickens’ eggs. You can also feed them bread and meat – but obviously not chicken meat – as well as things like leftover cooked rice and pasta (although only a little of these latter two, as you don’t want your chickens to have too much carbohydrate). Chickens will also find plenty of edible things if allowed to forage through compost.

Insects
Letting your chickens forage on the plot for insects also helps supplies them with the protein they need. It also benefits the garden, as they will eat insects that could become pests if populations are allowed to bloom. Allowing your chickens to freely range across the site is ideal, but if the threat from predators is acute, a chicken tractor allows them to forage in safety, and can be moved regularly around the garden so each location gets the attention of the chickens. Chickens will eat all manner of insects and larvae. They can be particularly useful if you have a problem with termites, as these are a particular favorite of most breeds. Allowing the chickens to run around the outside of the house can keep termites out of your home. Allowing the birds to forage in an orchard also helps keep fruit fly larvae under control, as the chickens will extract them from fallen fruit.

Grit
Chickens do not have teeth. Therefore they lack the means to chew and grind up their food to make it more digestible. So the birds consume grit, which acts on the food, particularly tougher foods like seeds and grain, in their gizzard to grind it up so that it can be processed by the small intestines. The gizzard is, in fact, a specialized part of the chicken’s digestive system specifically for this purpose. When chicken’s feed they tend to eat large quantities of food, which is stored in the crop, a pouch in their neck. The food then passes through a passage called the proventriculus where it is subjected to enzymes that start the digestion process, before entering the gizzard. The gizzard has very muscular walls that contract against the food, and in combination with the grit contained in the gizzard, mash it up for passage into the small intestine where the majority of digestion takes place.

For effective digestion in your chickens they need a regular supply of grit. If your birds are free to forage across your plot, they may well get enough grit naturally, but it is a good idea to provide some as a backup. For digestive purposes, you need to provide insoluble grit that doesn’t break down in the fluids and acids within the digestive system. This kind of grit comes in different sizes. You want to provide small grit to chicks and larger grit for adult birds.

You might also consider giving the chickens soluble grit. This doesn’t aid digestion, as it breaks down during digestion, but it does help your chickens form string eggshells. Soluble grit is typically made from oyster shells, cockle shells or limestone, and contains lots of calcium carbonate, which is an essential element for shell development.

Water
Even with the varied diet described above, one that is rich in grains, vegetation and insects, chickens are unlikely to get as much water as they need to stay healthy. So in addition to their food, you need to give the birds a constant supply of fresh drinking water (they will drink around the clock so it needs to be constantly available). A bowl is feasible, but is likely to get dirty quickly, so a dedicated water container, which provides water on demand or at least slowly provides it so the water is protected from contamination, is preferable.

Five Elements of Healthy Soil Composition

Good, healthy soil is essential for any permaculture garden. As the growing medium for your plants, it is the foundation on which everything else is based. A healthy soil’s main task, besides giving the plants something to physically be in, is to break down organic matter into forms that can be utilized by plants and other organisms. There are five elements of a healthy soil that interact to enable this function to be performed.

Moisture
The moisture level in a healthy soil is important for the health of the plants growing in it. The water that is in the soil, either from rainwater or irrigation, provides the vehicle through which soluble nutrients become available to plant roots. While you don’t want soil to become waterlogged, as a general rule, it is preferable to slow the rate that water leaves the soil. Some moisture in a soil will transform from liquid to gas and evaporate into the air. This depends on temperature and atmospheric pressure, and occurs particularly in places with little rain. Adding ground cover plants and preventing direct sun or strong winds attacking the soil can help retain moisture in the soil. To slow the rate of water percolation through the soil – meaning that it takes nutrients away from plant roots before the plants have had a chance to access them – add more organic matter such as compost to the soil.

Mineral Composition
Of significant importance in the retention of moisture in the soil, is the mineral composition. This refers to the proportions of different types of particles in the soil. A soil with a larger proportion of clay minerals, which are very fine, drain more slowly and hold water well, but form a hard, impenetrable surface in dry conditions. Soil that has a greater proportion of larger particles, such as sand, drains more quickly − which can be good for areas of high rainfall. For most areas, a mixture of the two is preferable, allowing for a medium level of drainage, which means nutrients are still available to plants but the soil does not become waterlogged. However, the ideal type of soil for your permaculture site will depend on the specific weather conditions that act upon it.

Gases
The three primary gases present in a healthy soil are oxygen, nitrogen and carbon dioxide. Plants use carbon dioxide to help with photosynthesis, a byproduct of which is oxygen, which is then used by animals in the soil. Nitrogen is an essential gas for plants to build proteins, perform photosynthesis and form DNA. When the levels of these gases are in equilibrium, the soil is healthy and plants and microorganisms thrive. To ensure a healthy level of gases in the soil, there needs to be an effective exchange of gases between the soil and the atmosphere. This exchange ensures that there is an adequate supply of oxygen in the soil to allow plants and microorganisms to thrive. Without the exchange potentially damaging levels of other gases, such as sulphur dioxide, can build up. The effectiveness of the exchange of gases is linked to the structure and composition of the soil, and takes place via two main processes.

Mass flow refers to the exchange of gases that takes place after rainfall or irrigation. As the water percolates through the soil, gases are displaced and enter the air. Conversely, when water from the soil evaporates, atmospheric air enters the soil. Diffusion, the more common form of gas exchange, involves the exchange of gases between the soil and atmosphere depending on the respective pressures of the gases. So, if the pressure of, say, carbon dioxide in the atmosphere is greater than that in the soil, it moves into the soil to create an equilibrium, and vice versa.

Organic Matter
Organic matter is the magic ingredient in a healthy soil. It gives the soil nutrients, can help the mineral composition (making clay soil moreopen, and helping sandy soils preserve water and nutrients), will add nitrogen to the soil, and affect the retention of moisture. The organic material also provides food for the microorganisms. Thus, you really can’t have enough organic matter in your soil. There are many ways to increase the amount of organic material on your plot. Composting turns food scraps, garden prunings and anything else that was once living into nutrient-rich humus that can be added to soil around plants. Cutting back crops such as barley and wheat and leaving the cut plants on the ground will allow them to break down directly into the soil, while mulching offers the duel benefit of a slow release of organic matter from the mulch itself (which can be anything from branches and leaf litter to woolen carpet underlay or old jeans) and the breakdown of weeds beneath the mulch as they are deprived of sunlight, and then rot into the soil.

Microorganisms
When there is a good balance between the gases and water levels in the soil, and there is sufficient organic matter, microorganisms will be abundant in a soil. This makes it healthy, as these organisms – bacteria, fungi and insects – have many positive effects on the soil to keep it in good condition. They break down nutrients in the soil and so make them available to plants. They break up the soil, providing space not only for plant roots but also air and water to penetrate the soil. And when they die they become part of the organic matter, returning their nutrients to the soil in the cycle of life. The more microorganisms – and the greater range of species – the better, as the ecosystem will become self-regulating, preventing any build up of pest populations.

All five of these elements are interacting all the time. Initially, it can seem daunting to think that you need to balance all of them correctly to ensure your plants survive and thrive. However, remember that nature will naturally try to find a way to achieve that balance, and by observing and replicating nature, it shouldn’t be too had to create ad maintain a healthy soil.

Homesteading and Permature Culture Resource CD-ROM 500+ ebooks

eBooks are in pdf Format
All of these books are rare and hard to find. They were produced in late 1800s and early 1900s. Books range from 200 to 500 pages.They are now mostly out of print. I have complete resale rights on all these products.

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List of Books 500+                                           

A Complete Guide to Backyard Fish Farming.pdf

A Complete Handbook on Backyard and Commercial Rabbit Production.pdf

A Component of Low Cost Sanitation Technology.pdf

A Design Manual for Water Wheels.pdf

A Manual of Bee-Keeping.pdf

A Manual of Canning and Preserving.pdf

A Manual on an Easy Method of Managing Bees.pdf

A Manual on the Hydraulic Ram Pump.pdf

A Pasture Handbook.pdf

A Pelton Micro Hydro Prototype Design.pdf

A Planning Guide for Small Scale Livestock Projects.pdf

A Portable Dry Litter Pig Pen.pdf

A Practical Treatise on the Hive and Honey Bee.pdf

A Preliminary Account of the Rice Weevil.pdf

A Study of Horseradish Diseases and Their Control.pdf

A Thousand Answers to Bee-Keeping Questions.pdf

A Treatise on Food Conservation and the Art of Canning.pdf

A TReatise on the Culture of Orange.pdf

A Whole Farm Approach to Managing Pests.pdf

A Woodstove Compendium.pdf

Abaca.pdf

Advice to Beginners in the Rabbit Industry.pdf

Agriculture of Tomorrow.pdf

Alcohol Distillation.pdf

All Ready for Asparagus.pdf

Altering Onion Flowering Dates.pdf

American Long Grain Rice.pdf

An Essay on the Use of Salt as a Manure.pdf

Anatomical Aspects of Avocado Stems and Their Relation to Rooting.pdf

Ancient Method of Farming.pdf

Animal Power in Farming Systems.pdf

Animal-Driven Power Gear.pdf

Asparagus Culture.pdf

Asparagus in California.pdf

Asparagus Its Culture for Home Use and for Market.pdf

Asparagus Production in California.pdf

Asparagus Production.pdf

Asparagus Yields as Affected by Severity of Cutting.pdf

Assimilate Partitioning in California.pdf

Avocado Culture in California.pdf

Avocado Diseases in California.pdf

Avocado Diseases.pdf

Avocado Pests.pdf

Avocado Propagation.pdf

Avocado Root Rot.pdf

Avocado Situation in California.pdf

Avocados and Limes.pdf

Backyard Composting.pdf

Backyard Rabbit Farming.pdf

Balanced Meals with Recipes.pdf

Bamboo Reinforced Concrete Rainwater Collection Tank.pdf

Banana.pdf

Barnacle Parp's Chain Saw Guide.pdf

Barnyard Manure.pdf

Basic Information Multi Purpose Power Unit with Horizontal Water Turbine.pdf

Basic Plumbing Skills.pdf

Basic Sewing Machine Repair.pdf

Basic Soil Improvement for Everyone.pdf

Bee Keeping Handbook.pdf

Bee Primer for the Prospective Bee Keeper.pdf

Bee-Keeping for Beginners.pdf

Bee-Keeping for Profit.pdf

BeeKeeping Simplified.pdf

Bees and Bee Keeping.pdf

Bees and Honey.pdf

Bees Pigeons and Rabbits.pdf

Beneficial and EM.pdf

Betel Nut Palm.pdf

Better Farming Series #9 Animal Husbandry.pdf

Better Freshwater Fish Farming The Fish.pdf

Better Freshwater Fish Farming The Pond.pdf

Better Tools for the Job.pdf

BioIntensive Farming Training Manual.pdf

Biology and Control of Avocado Insects and Mites.pdf

Black Spot of Onion Sets.pdf

Bobwhite Quail and Its Management.pdf

Bobwhite Quail Production.pdf

Boies Utility Rabbits for Meat and Fur.pdf

Bokashi Piggery.pdf

Breeding and Care of Rabbits for Exhibition and Market.pdf

British Bee-Farming.pdf

British BeeKeeper's Practical Notebook.pdf

Brooding Quails and Chickens.pdf

Building and Locating Backyard Birdhouses.pdf

Building to Resist the Effect of Wind 2.pdf

Building to Resist the Effect of Wind.pdf

Calculation of Check Dams.pdf

Campbell's Tea Coffee and Spice Manual.pdf

Camping Recipes.doc

Canning and Preserving.pdf

Canning Meat, Wild Game Poultry and Fish Safely.pdf

Canning Preserving and Jelly Making.pdf

Canning Preserving Pickling and Fruit Desserts.pdf

Chain Link Fence Making Machine.pdf

Charcoal Production Using a Transportable Metal Kiln.pdf

Checklist Cold Climate.pdf

Checklist Hot Climate.pdf

Checklist Overwater.pdf

Cheese Making 2.pdf

Cheese Making.pdf

China Recycling of Organic Wastes in Agriculture.pdf

Chives.pdf

Choosing a Human Diet.pdf

Co Operative Organization.pdf

Coffee.pdf

Colonial and Camp Sanitation.pdf

Commercial Rabbit Production.pdf

Commercial Rabbit Raising.pdf

Community Canning Centers.pdf

Community Water Supply and Sanitation in Nepal.pdf

Comparing Simple Charcoal Production Technologies for the Caribbean.pdf

Comparison of Alternative Design Wheelbarrows.pdf

Complete Guide to Home Canning.pdf

Composition and Production of Poultry Manure.pdf

Compost Privy.pdf

Compost Toilets.pdf

Composting for the Tropics.pdf

Composting on a Large Scale.pdf

Composting Sanitary Disposal and Reclamation of Organic Wastes.pdf

Composting.pdf

Condiments Spices and Flavors.pdf

Conservation Farming for Small Farmers in the Humid Tropics.pdf

Considerations in Organic Hog Production.pdf

Constructive BeeKeeping.pdf

Cookstove Construction by the Terra Ceta Method.pdf

Cottage Economy Containing Keeping of Rabbits.pdf

Country Living Country Skills.pdf

Crops That Pay.pdf

Crosscut Saw Manual.pdf

Dadant System of BeeKeeping.pdf

Dehydrating Foods Fruits Vegetables Fish and Meats.pdf

Dictionary of Practical Apiculture.pdf

Disaster Mitigation.pdf

Diseases of Onions.pdf

Diversify Cropping Systems.pdf

Double Vault Composting Toilets.pdf

Drainage of Avocado Orchards on Terrace and Upland Soils.pdf

Dry Composting Latrines.pdf

Drying and Processing Tree Fruits.pdf

Easy Gardening Asparagus.pdf

Economic Impacts of Frozen Concentrated Orange Juice Futures Trading on the Florida Orange Industry.pdf

Edible-and-Medicinal-Plants.pdf

Effects of Cold Storage on Quail.pdf

Effects of Weather on Orange Supplies.pdf

Effects on Production of Onion Seed.pdf

Elements of BeeKeeping.pdf

EM Bokashi Composting Guide.pdf

EM.pdf

Emergency Food Preparation Cookbook.pdf

Emergency Health Management after Natural Disaster.pdf

Emergency Vector Control After Natural Disaster.pdf

Environmental Health Management After Natural Disaster.pdf

Equipment for Rural Workshops.pdf

Essay on the Use of Lime as a Manure.pdf

Essays on Rural Hygiene.pdf

Establishing Needs After a Disaster.pdf

Estimating Small Stream Water Flow.pdf

Evaluating 2 Systems of Harvesting and Handling Fresh Tomatoes.pdf

Everywomans Canning Book.pdf

Excreta Disposal for Rural Areas and Small Communities.pdf

Experiments in Onion Culture.pdf

Experiments With the Transplant Onion Crop in California.pdf

Farm Manures.pdf

Farmer's Guide on Bio Organic Inputs.pdf

Farmyard Manure.pdf

Fertilizer Experiments with Green House Tomatoes.pdf

Fertilizer Experiments With Greenhouse.pdf

Fertilizer Experiments with Tomato Crops.pdf

Fertilizing Onion Sets.pdf

Financial Management of a Small Handicraft Business.pdf

Firewood Crops.pdf

-First-Aid-Full-Manual.pdf

Fodder and Pasture Plants.pdf

Food Drying Progress and Importance.pdf

Food-Plant-Identification.pdf

Foot Operated Spinning Wheel.pdf

Forcing Tomatoes.pdf

Forest Farming.pdf

FoxFire 1.pdf

FoxFire 2.pdf

Foxfire 3.pdf

FoxFire 4.pdf

FoxFire 5.pdf

Foxfire 6.pdf

French Method of Intensive Cultivation and Asparagus Forcing.pdf

Freshwater Fish Farming How to Begin.pdf

Freshwater Fish Pond Culture and Management.pdf

Fruit and Vegetable Processing.pdf

Fruit Culture Sour Orange Stock.pdf

Fruits and Vegetables Under Glass Asparagus.pdf

Game Farming for Profit and Pleasure.pdf

Gardening for Better Nutrition.pdf

Gardening with the Seasons.pdf

Gaviotas Manual Sleeve Pump.pdf

Genetic Studies of Rabbits.pdf

Goat Health Handbook.pdf

Goodbye to the Flush Toilet.pdf

Grazing Contracts for Livestock.pdf

Green Manuring.pdf

GreenHouse Tomato Handbook.pdf

Grill Recipes.pdf

Growing and Handling Garlic in California.pdf

Growing Asparagus in the Home Garden.pdf

Growing Garden Seeds.pdf

Growing Garden Tomatoes.pdf

Growing Organic Potatoes.pdf

Growing Tomatoes for Early Market.pdf

Growing-Wild-Mushrooms.pdf

Guano Its Origin Properties and Use as a Cheap Manure.pdf

Guatemalan Avocado in Hawaii.pdf

Guide to Solar Powered Water Pumping System.pdf

Guidelines on Health Aspects of Plumbing.pdf

Hand Pumps.pdf

Handtool Handbook for Woodworking.pdf

Harnessing the Small Stream.pdf

Herbal Manual.pdf

Highland Potato.pdf

Highly Important to Farmers Compost.pdf

Hints for Successful Rabbit Breeding.pdf

Hints on Raising Quail.pdf

Hints on the Development of Small Water Power.pdf

Home and Farm Food Preservation.pdf

Home Canning and Drying of Vegetables and Fruits.pdf

Home Canning by the Cold Pack Method.pdf

Home Honey Production.pdf

HomeScale Processing and Preservation of Fruits and Vegetables.pdf

House Drainage and Water Service in Rural Neighborhoods.pdf

Houses How to Reduce Building Cost.pdf

How to Build a House of Modern Adobe.pdf

How to Build a Pit Latrine.pdf

How to Build a Water Snare.pdf

How to Choose a Survival Knife.pdf

How to Cultivate IMO.pdf

How to Farm Better.pdf

How to Grow Onions.pdf

How to Grow the Tomato and 115 Ways to Prepare it for the Table.pdf

How to Handle Bees.pdf

How to Handle Frozen Fish.pdf

How to Harvest Ice.pdf

How to Help Rice Plants.pdf

How to Make Ammo Can Wood Stove.pdf

How to Make Basic Hospital Equipment.pdf

How to Make Fertilizer.pdf

How to Manage the Blue Orchard Bee.pdf

How to Plant and Cultivate an Orange Orchard.pdf

How to Raise Quails for Profit.pdf

How To Salt Fish.pdf

How to Select Breed and Manage the Rabbit.pdf

How to Survive.pdf

How to Use Metal Tubing.pdf

How to Use Urine in the Garden.pdf

Humanity to Honey Bees.pdf

Hydroponics.pdf

Hydroponics-for-the-Home-Gardener.pdf

Hydropower.pdf

Improved Wood, Waste, and Charcoal Burning Stoves.pdf

Improving Building Skills.pdf

Indian Game From Quail to Tiger.pdf

Industrial Archaeology of Watermills and Water Power.pdf

Inheritance of Resistance to Asparagus Rust.pdf

Inoculated Deep Litter System.pdf

Insect Enemies and Diseases of the Tomato.pdf

Insects Affecting the Orange.pdf

Integrated Farm Management.pdf

Intensive Gardening for Profit and Self-Sufficiency.pdf

Introduction to Soil and Water Conservation Practices.pdf

Irrigation Cost Analysis Handbook.pdf

Irrigation Principles and Practices.pdf

Irrigation Water Requirement Studies of Citrus and Avocado Trees.pdf

Japanese Quail Husbandry in the Laboratory.pdf

Jerky Recipes.pdf

Journal of New Alchemists 1.pdf

Journal of New Alchemists 3.pdf

Journal of New Alchemists 4.pdf

Journal of New Alchemists 5.pdf

Korean Natural Farming System.pdf

Land Clearance.pdf

Langstroth on the Hive and Honey Bee.pdf

Leaf Concentrate.pdf

Leucaena Based Farming.pdf

Leucaena.pdf

Live Three Plans for Survival in Nuclear Attack.pdf

Livingston and the Tomato.pdf

Local Experience with Micro Hydro Technology.pdf

Local Harvest.pdf

Louisiana Rice Book.pdf

Low Cost Development of Small Water Power Sites.pdf

Lowney's Cook Book.pdf

Make an Earthbox Planter.pdf

Making and Using a Solar Wax melter.pdf

Making Homemade Cheese.pdf

Manage Insects on Your Farm.pdf

Management of Market Rabbits.pdf

Management of Solid Wastes in Developing Countries.pdf

Manual for Solar Box Cookers.pdf

Manual for the Design of a Simple Mechanical Water Hydraulic.pdf

Manure from The Sea.pdf

Manures for Organic Crop Production.pdf

Manures How to Make and Use Them.pdf

Marines-Cold-Weather-Medicine-Course.pdf

Masonry.pdf

Medical Supply Management After Disaster.pdf

Metabolism of Iodoacetic Acid by Orange Leaves.pdf

Methods of Canning Fruits and Vegetables.pdf

Methods Used in Breeding Asparagus for Rust Resistance.pdf

Micro Hydro Electric Power.pdf

Micro Pelton Turbines.pdf

Micro Scale Biogas Production.pdf

MicroHydropower Handbook.pdf

Micro-HydroPower.pdf

Mini Technology II.pdf

Mini Technology.pdf

Minimum Standards for Cyclone Resistant Housing Using Traditional Materials.pdf

Minimum Standards for Earthquake Resistant Housing Using Traditional Materials.pdf

Mixing Free Range Hens and Ruminants on Pasture.pdf

Modern Rice Culture.pdf

Modern Stoves for All.pdf

More Camping Recipes.pdf

More Jerky Recipes.PDF

Mud Crab Fattening Practices.pdf

Multi Purpose Power Unit with Horizontal Water Turbine.pdf

My Large Knife-Based Survival Kit.pdf

NAtural Farming in Malaysia.pdf

Nature Farming in the Philippines.pdf

Nature Farming Manual.pdf

New Guide to Orange Culture.pdf

New Method How to Make Vegetable Manure.pdf

NF Poultry.pdf

No Tillage Farming.pdf

Nuclear Survival Manual.pdf

Nuclear War Survival Skills.pdf

On a Green Mountain With Masanobu Fukuoka.pdf

On Growing and Forcing Asparagus.pdf

On the Growing and Marketing of Tomatoes.pdf

On the Growth of the Rice Plant.pdf

Onion Culture Prize Essays and Other Papers.pdf

Onion Culture.pdf

Onion Growing in California.pdf

Onion Production in California.pdf

Onion Raising.pdf

Onion Smudge.pdf

Onion Trials.pdf

Onions for Profit.pdf

Onions How to Raise Them Profitably.pdf

Onions.pdf

Orange and Grape Fruit Culture in Louisiana.pdf

Orange Culture A Treatise on the Citrus Family.pdf

Orange Culture in California.pdf

Orange Culture in Southern California.pdf

Orange Culture in the Punjab.pdf

Orange Culture.pdf

Organic Alternatives to Treated Lumber.pdf

Organic Gardener's Composting.pdf

Organic Livestock Workbook.pdf

Organic Pig Production.pdf

Ornamental Bamboos for Urban Parks.pdf

Overshot and Current Water Wheels.pdf

Pasture Based Poultry Production.pdf

Pastured Poultry.pdf

Peat and Its Use as a Fertilizer.pdf

Peat as a Manure Substitute.pdf

Permaculture II.pdf

Pig Waste Management and Recycling.PDF

Pigeons.pdf

Planning for Agroforestry.pdf

Plans for a Glass and Concrete Solar Still.pdf

Planting Tree Crops.pdf

Plastic Sheeting Its Use for Emergency Shelter and Other Purposes.pdf

Pleasurable BeeKeeping.pdf

Potato Handbook.pdf

Potato Production.pdf

Pounding and Polishing Rice.pdf

Practical Advice to Beginners in BeeKeeping.pdf

Practical Orange Culture.pdf

Practical Poultry Raising.pdf

Practical Rabbit Keeping.pdf

Preparing and Canning Fermented Fruit and Pickled Vegetables.pdf

Preservation of Food.pdf

Preservation of Foods.pdf

Preserving and Canning.pdf

Preserving and Manufacturing Secrets.pdf

Preserving Food - Drying Fruits and Vegetables.pdf

Preserving Vegetables by Salting Drying and Storing.pdf

Principles and Practices of Citrus Culture in California.pdf

Process of Ripening in the Tomato.pdf

Productive BeeKeeping.pdf

Profit in Quail Breeding.pdf

Profitable Bee-Keeping.pdf

Program Planning Guide.pdf

Program Planning Options for the Reconstruction of Disaster Resistant Housing.pdf

Propagation of Avocados.pdf

Purification of Water on a Small Scale.pdf

Quail and Pheasant Studies in an Orchard County.pdf

Quail Culture from A to Z.pdf

Quailology.pdf

Quality of Reconstituted Chilled Orange Juice.pdf

Rabbit and Cat Diseases.pdf

Rabbit and Cavy Culture.pdf

Rabbit Culture and Standard.pdf

Rabbit Housing Manual.pdf

Rabbit Keeping on Money Making Lines.pdf

Rabbits and All About Them.pdf

Rabbits and Dollars.pdf

Rainwater Harvesting.pdf

Raising Birds on Pasture.pdf

Raising Bobwhite Quail for Commercial Use.pdf

Raising Fresh Fish in your Home Waters.pdf

Raising Goats for Milk and Meat.pdf

Raising Healthy Cattle Under Primitive Conditions.pdf

Raising Healthy Goats Under Primitive Conditions.pdf

Raising Healthy Pigs Under Primitive Conditions.pdf

Raising Healthy Poultry Under Primitive Conditions.pdf

Raising Healthy Rabbits Under Primitive Condition.pdf

Raising Japanese Quail.pdf

Raising Rabbits 2.pdf

Raising Rabbits.pdf

Range and Pasture Management.pdf

Rangeland Management Strategies.pdf

Rattan and Bamboo.pdf

Rearing Guide Roasting Peking Duck.pdf

Recipes for the Preserving of Fruit, Vegetables, and Meat.pdf

Remedies for Health Problems of the Organic Laying Flock.pdf

Renewable Energy Opportunities on the Farm.pdf

RENNET PREPARATION.pdf

Residential Water Re-Use.pdf

Rice Drying and Storage Building and Operation.pdf

Rice Food for All.pdf

Rice for Breakfast Dinner Supper.pdf

Rice for Cultivation.pdf

Rice Irrigation in Texas.pdf

Rice Postharvest Losses.pdf

Richey's Rabbit and Cavy Book.pdf

Rural School Sanitation.pdf

Sago Palm.pdf

Sales Methods and Policies of the Calavo Growers of California.pdf

Sanitation in Developing Countries.pdf

Sanitation Without Water.pdf

Sawdust Burning Space Heater Stove.pdf

Scientific Rabbit Breeding.pdf

Seeding Rates Cultivars and Planting Methods for Small Processing Onions.pdf

Selecting, Preparing, and Canning Tomatoes and Tomato Products.pdf

Septic Tank Practices.pdf

Seven-Survival-Shelters-That-Could-Save-your-life.pdf

Sheep Health Handbook.pdf

Shelter After Disaster Guidelines for Assistance.pdf

Shelter After Disaster.pdf

Shelter.pdf

Short Rotation Forestry.pdf

Simple Solar Still for the Production of Distilled Water.pdf

Size Inheritance in Rabbits.pdf

Sled Type Corrugator.pdf

Small Earth Dams.pdf

Small Farm Weed Control.pdf

Small Hydro in Montana.pdf

Small Michell (Banki) Turbine.pdf

Small Scale Beekeping.pdf

Small Scale Charcoal making.pdf

Small Scale Egg Production Organic and Nonorganic.pdf

Small Scale Hydropower Technologies.pdf

Small Scale Irrigation.pdf

Small Scale Manufacture of Burned Building Brick.pdf

Smart Water Use on Your Farm or Ranch.pdf

Soil, Crops, and Fertilizer Use.pdf

Solar Cookers in Developing Countries.pdf

Solar Powered Livestock Watering System.pdf

Solar Powered Livestock Watering Systems.pdf

Solar PV for Irrigation Water Pumping.pdf

Solar-Cookers-How to Make, Use, and Enjoy.pdf

Some of the Essentials of Bee-Keeping.pdf

Some Results of Castration in Ducks.pdf

Spices and Condiments by Richardson.pdf

Spices and Condiments.pdf

Spices and How to Know Them.pdf

Spices Their Nature and Growth.pdf

Spices.pdf

Squab Raising.pdf

Standard of Perfection for Rabbits, Skin and Fur Bearing Animals.pdf

Starting Right With Bees.pdf

Stocking Up How to Preserve the Foods You Grow Naturally.pdf

Storage and Spanish Onion Trials.pdf

Storing Vegetables and Fruits in Basements.pdf

Studies of Inheritance in Rabbits.pdf

Studies on the Downy Mildew of Onions.pdf

Sturtevants Edible Plants of the World.pdf

Successful Canning and Preserving.pdf

Sulphate of Ammonia Its Practical Value as a Manure.pdf

Super Turbo Rice Husk Stove.pdf

Survival - Homemade, Traps And Snares.pdf

Survival - Knots And How To Tie Them.pdf

Survival Guide How to Make Bamboo Joints.pdf

Survival Guide Things To Make From Bamboo.pdf

Survival Kit Cold Climate.pdf

Survival Kit Hot Climate.pdf

Survival Kit OverWater.pdf

Survival.pdf

Sustainability and Ecology at ZEGG.pdf

Sustainable Goat Production.pdf

Sustainable Poultry.pdf

Switchgrass as a Bioenergy Crop.pdf

Teaching Solar Cooking.pdf

Temporary Fencing for Rotational Grazing.pdf

Ten for Survival Survive Nuclear Attack.pdf

Texas Rice Book.pdf

The 20th Century Rabbit Guide.pdf

The ABC and XYZ of Bee Culture.pdf

The Amazing Plastic Still.pdf

The American Bee Keeper's Manual.pdf

The American Pet Stock Standard of Perfection.pdf

The Avocado in California.pdf

The Avocado in Southern California.pdf

The Backyard Dairy Book.pdf

The Banki Water Turbine.pdf

The Bee Keeper's Manual.pdf

The Bee Preserver.pdf

The Bee-Keeper's Guide.pdf

The Beekeper's Handbook.pdf

The Biochemistry and Methodology of Composting.pdf

The Book for All Households.pdf

The Book of Asparagus.pdf

The Book of Bee-Keeping.pdf

The Book of Tempeh Soy Food.pdf

The California Avocado Industry.pdf

The Care and Management of Rabbits.pdf

The Chainsaw and the Lumbermaker.pdf

The Complete Book of Heating With Wood.pdf

The Complete Confectioner Baker.pdf

The Complete Housekeeper.pdf

The Composition of Canning Tomatoes.pdf

The Composition of Different Varieties of Red Peppers.pdf

The Construction of a Hydraulic Ram Pump.pdf

The Design and Development of Solar Powered Refrigerators.pdf

The Design of Small Bore Sewer Systems.pdf

The Design of Ventilated Improved Pit Latrines.pdf

The Draft Horse Primer.pdf

The Dutch Rabbit How to House Feed and Breed.pdf

The Employment of Draught Animals in Agriculture.pdf

The Field Book of Manures.pdf

The Gods Gave Rice.pdf

The Golden Insect A Handbook of Beekeping for Beginners.pdf

The Grape Vine Borer.pdf

The Greatest of Grains Rice.pdf

The Handcart Handbook.pdf

The Harnessing of Draught Animals.pdf

The Hive and The Honey Bee.pdf

The Hog Wild Cookbook.PDF

The Homesteader's Handbook for Raising Small Livestock.pdf

The Honey Makers.pdf

The Hygienic Cook Book.pdf

The Jack Rabbits of the United States.pdf

The Life of the Bee.pdf

The Management of Nutritional Emergencies in Large Populations.pdf

The Natural Way of Farming.pdf

The Naturalist's Library.pdf

The New Onion Culture.pdf

The New Zealand Red Rabbit and Rabbit Culture.pdf

The Nursery Manual.pdf

The Onion Book.pdf

The Orange from Seed to Grove.pdf

The Orange in Northern and Central California.pdf

The Orange Its Culture in California.pdf

The Pearce New Method of BeeKeeping.pdf

The Pecan and Satsuma Orange.pdf

The Potential for Small Scale Solar Powered Irrigation.pdf

The Production and Utilization of Manure.pdf

The Rabbit Fancier.pdf

The Rabbit with a Chapter on Cookery.pdf

The Rabbits.pdf

The Recycling, Use, and Repair of Tools.pdf

The Red Spider on the Avocado.pdf

The Rice Moth.pdf

The Samaka Guide to Homesite Farming.pdf

The Scythe Book.pdf

The Secrets of Canning.pdf

The Segner Turbine.pdf

The Timber Framing Book.pdf

The Use of Bamboo Charcoal to Remove the Bad Smell of Manure.pdf

The Use of Hand Woodworking Tools.pdf

The Use of Wheelbarrows in Civil Construction.pdf

The Whole Art of Curing, Pickling, and Smoking Meat and Fish.pdf

The Wild Rice Gatherers of the Upper Lakes.pdf

The WOT Field.pdf

The-Complete-Outdoorsman-s-Handbook-.pdf

The-Practical-Poultry-Keeper.pdf

Three Tomato Home Processing and Preservation Techniques.pdf

Timber Drying Manual.pdf

Tomato Cultivation.pdf

Tomato Culture for Amateurs.pdf

Tomato Culture.pdf

Tomato Diseases and Disorders.pdf

Tomato Diseases.pdf

Tomato Its Culture and Uses.pdf

Tomato Ketchup Under the Microscope.pdf

Tomato Raising in Common Gardens.pdf

Tomato Varieties and Strains.pdf

Tomatoes and How to Grow Them.pdf

Tools and How to Use Them.pdf

Tools and their Uses.pdf

Tools for Agriculture.pdf

Traditional Cheesemaking Manual.pdf

Trail-Recipes.pdf

Transitioning to Organic Production.pdf

Trapping and Care of Quail.pdf

Treatise and Handbook on Orange Culture in Florida.pdf

Treatise on the Management of Bees.pdf

Tree Crops.pdf

Trees as an Indicator of Wind Power Potential.pdf

Try the Rabbit.pdf

UN High Commissioner for Refugees Handbook for Emergencies.pdf

Understanding Small Farmers.pdf

Unpolished Rice The Staple Food of the Orient.pdf

Upland Game Birds.pdf

Use of Baking Soda as a Fungicide.pdf

Using Water Resources.pdf

US-Marine-Corps-Summer-Survival-Course.pdf

USMC-Winter-Survival-Course.pdf

Varieties of the Satsuma Orange Group.pdf

Various Peel Oil Levels in Frozen Concentrated Orange Juice.pdf

Ventilated Improved Pit Latrines.pdf

Vetiver Grass.pdf

Village Technology Handbook.pdf

Waste Systems Plumbing.pdf

Water Current Turbines.pdf

Water Mills in Central Crete.pdf

Water Power for the Farm.pdf

Water Treatment and Sanitation.pdf

Watermelon Culture.pdf

Watermills with Horizontal Wheels.pdf

Water-Survival-Training.pdf

Weed Control.pdf

Wet Rice Cultivation in Indonesia.pdf

What is a Hurricane.pdf

What is a Tidal Wave.pdf

What is Sustainable Agriculture.pdf

Where There is No Doctor.pdf

Why and How to Use Salt and Smoked Fish.pdf

Wild Fowl Decoys in Essex.pdf

Wild Garlic.pdf

Wild Plants for Income.pdf

Wild Rice.pdf

Wilderness-Medicine-Course.pdf

Wind Resistant Block Houses.pdf

Winnowing Fan.pdf

Wintering Bees.pdf

Wood Harvesting Hand Tools.pdf

Wood Stoves How to Make and Use Them.pdf

Work from Waste.pdf

Zig Zag Solar Collector.pdf

These rare books are hard to find because they are out of print.  These books have entered the public domain which allows them to be compiled into this compilation for you. Books published before 1923 have all entered the public domain as of January 1st, 1998. Under the terms of the Digital Millennium Copyright Act, book published between 1923 and 1964 inclusive, are public domain in the United States because the US Copyright was not renewed in a timely fashion. Works produced by the US Government are not entitled to domestic copyright protection under U.S. law.